Monday, May 16
We were up early, and ate breakfast before collecting the car. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be driving in Thailand. The road to Sangkhlaburi was mostly highway quality, and well sign-posted in English. First we stopped at the Hin Dat Hot Springs. They were not as exotic as I thought they would be, but I took a little dip anyway and was glad for it. A little while later a group of Russians arrived. Someone told me earlier that the only people who go there are Thais and Russians. And one Canadian now.
Our initial reaction to Sangkhlaburi was one of disappointment. It is a very ruddy-looking quiet town. But I came to appreciate it. There are a number of aid agencies here helping out refugees from Burma. We went to one bakery that was part of the aid effort, and their pineapple pie was very good. Our room was very nice and had an extraordinary view over the lake with some hills in behind and a huge golden pagoda protruding out of the jungle. There was also a small village just on the lake and many fires coming from it as people were (I think) burning weeds and cuttings.
I ate a Burmese curry at our guesthouse which reminded me of an Indian curry a little, and was the only curry I've had in Thailand that contained potato. We also visited a temple where some people were being blessed by a monk and stapling money into a sort of money tree.
We were both asleep by about seven this night.
Tuesday
Got up early to a nice view out the window. The hills were still covered in mist just behind the lake. I went outside and the insects were deafening. I wonder if these noise-makers are cicadas? I had read about them before. I had a few minutes with my eyes closed and tried to recognize all the early morning sounds: several birds, crickets or grasshoppers perhaps, maybe frogs, in the distance a motor boat. We went for a walk across a long foot bridge said to be Thailand's longest foot bridge and at the other side is a Mon village. I suppose the Mon are a minority who occupy this area where Thailand and Burma meet. There was some kind of ritual going on where dozens of people took offerings to the monks. We saw this later on too in a temple across from where we had breakfast.
The Mon women had a funny practice of covering their faces with a white or yellow powder; I'm not sure why. We sat down and ordered some food from a young girl: a couple of small pancakes, two deep fried donuts, and three desserts. The first two looked like something the Chinese have except she poured a cream over it. The desserts seemed to be made from coconut and red bean.
Later I took a cafe latte from the Haiku Guesthouse which appears to be run by Japanese. And then we made our way back to Kancahanaburi. First we made a detour to the Three Pagodas Pass, the Thai-Burmese border. There was nothing to see there; however, the drive was nice. Later we stopped at the Hellfire Pass memorial to Australian POWs who worked on the Death Railway as forced by the Japanese which was interesting.
The drive back to Kanchanaburi was very pretty. I must have missed most of it while driving the other direction the day before since I was a new driver in Thailand. But this day I saw much of the tall limestone crags covered in jungle vegetation. At one point on the drive, a truck full of cattle in the back almost had one escape. He was at the front and jumped up so his front feet were right on the roof of the cabin. I thought, here we go, a cow is going to come hurtling onto the road in front of me. But no, he didn't get loose.
The day ended with Aly, the car rental owner, taking us to the bus station and running around all over the place asking people about bus schedules and prices for us. She was super nice. I did have some trepidation getting in the car with her; however, because just a few moments before when I was showing her my map, she had to pull out a magnifying glass in order to see it. Nonetheless, she was a pretty good driver and very helpful in getting us onto a bus to Bangkok. At the hotel, I booked our air tickets for Trat the next morning.